On top of Chile or to its north are the dry, scorching hot sands of the Atacama Desert. Then you go to the East and you’re overwhelmed with the grand sights of the massive Andes Mountains. Look left and find the depths of the Atlantic Ocean. Then, just beyond its southerly border is the bare coldness of Antarctica’s thrilling glaciers. A nature created barricade just for Chile and this barricade is heart of what makes Chile’s wine growing country unique and very desirable…literally speaking this time.

Grapes vines and wine making in Chile goes as far back as the mid 16^th Century, where Spaniards settled here and planted the Pais grape, Muscatel and other Spanish Varietals. Wine production was miniscule and export was nearly nonexistent. The rest of the wine world was enjoying the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, from the beloved France and Italy’s prized Chianti. Why even glance at Chile? Then it all boiled down to a bug; the Madonna of all bugs, Phylloxera.

Phylloxera is a root feeding aphid and its favorite meal is the rootstock of the vine, Vitis Vinifera. Vitis Vinifera is basically the species of grape vines that are made into wine…the common grape.  The other is called Vitis Labrusca also known as the Concord grape.  The Concord grape vine is somewhat resistant to Phylloxera because it has had the time to build and immunity to it. Phylloxera is indigenous to North America whereas the Concord grape is too, but Vitis Vinifera, your Cabs, Merlots, Chardonnays and all other wine making grapes, are not.

Here’s the short story…the European brings over Vitis Vinifera to North America. Then the American says, “Can I trade with you?”  “My wine for yours, your vine for mine?” (Your plants for mine and vice versa). By the way, there’s this bug that is hitch hiking back with you to Europe and it’ll practically wipe out the entire wine industry. You can use our Concord grape root stock to graft your Vitis Vinifera and it’ll save your wine industry. No hard feelings. The end, but just the beginning for Chile.

While the wine industry in Europe took a nose dive (around 1843) due to the Phylloxera outbreak, many winemakers and vineyard owners were out of work especially the French, where it was first and hardest hit. (The Phylloxera outbreak is compared to the potato famine with similar economic impact and hardship)  Therefore, the French headed to Chile. It had desirable land, climate, weather and great potential for vine growing. Plus, the nasty little bug could not get through Chile’s natural barricade. The Andes are too high, the dessert too hot and sandy, the ocean too big and the glaciers too cold. Chile was then discovered, coveted and planted with better vines than the Pais grape and Muscatel.

You would think the impact of French wine makers with their wine technology and thousands of years of experience would have made Chile the next Bordeaux.  Well, it didn’t. The Chilean Government stifled wine plantings, growth and exports by price fixing and applying huge taxes. When a more free economy came about later in the 20^th  Century, you can notice the influx of quality wine, independent wine makers and reduced over production.

Now Chile is becoming famous for its Carmenere grape and Cabernet Sauvignons that give just as much body as California for half the price. Well, nowadays, a quarter of the price. The Carmenere grape was brought over by the French (it’s a Bordeaux Varietal) and for years passed on as Merlot. When it’s true origin was discovered by DNA testing it soon became Chile’s Grape. Plus, all grape vines in Chile are on natural rootstock, adding to this regions uniqueness and desirability. See, it is a desirable place; figuratively and literally. Get your hands on some Chilean wines. You will find not only the famous Carmenere, but wonderful Merlots, Cabs, Syrahs, Cab Francs, Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs and yes even Riesling and Pinot Noir in the South. Didn’t I mention the great price? Don’t forget that.

Now carrying Wine from Chilensis. Chardonnay and Malbec. $11.79/btl

More info on Chilensis, visit http://www.hemingwayandhale.com/wines_chilensis.htm

I’m giving you permission to have a glass of wine every day. I’m taking away your guilt (if you have any) and allowing you to sit and sip each night. I’m also saving your life.  Ever hear of the French Paradox? Well, read up and relax with a nice glass of wine.

In case you didn’t know, the French diet is rich in saturated fats. They love, love, love their butter (as do I) and their pastries, croissants, pork, cheeses…I feel a pregnancy craving happening, drool.  The interesting tid bit is the French have very low rates of coronary heart disease.   We have to thank an Irish physician named Samuel Black for connecting the dots (and letting us live guilt free in that department). Dr. Black discovered back in 1819 the offset of heart disease, considering the high saturated fat French diet, was caused by wine consumption…especially red wine.  The French consume on average of twelve gallons of wine per person per year compared to the U.S. where the average is about two and a half gallons per person per year and actually climbing.  Smaller food portions are believed to play a role too. This idea has lead to the French Paradox.

Resveratrol is one of components of red wine that is believed to be a factor in offsetting cholesterol buildup in the arteries.  The combination of antioxidants and alcohol also play a factor in reducing cardiovascular disease. I feel like I should place an alcohol clause here. Ahem…too much alcohol can lead to drunk dialing, take-out pizza, unwanted boyfriends, etc. Seriously, we’re all adults. We know what too much alcohol can do.

All these “scientific” benefits found in wine has encouraged people, especially in America, to drink a little more red wine each day to save their hearts.  I believe there is one factor overlooked. When you drink wine, traditionally you drink with a meal and with your family and/or friends. You’re forced to sit with the ones you love, talk about life, relax and ignore time. This is the best benefit of all. A relaxing and stress free environment. You just have to like your family and friends.

The French Paradox has been disputed, knocked down, re-established, become a religion for some and has even lead to doctor prescriptions.  There are proven health benefits, but there are also palate pleasing benefits. When you try new wines and more and more new wines your palate becomes increasingly sensitive. You’ll begin to pick out interesting flavors that were overlooked in the past. The smells become more familiar and your experience while drinking wine becomes a painting; intriguing, fresh, unpredictable, and mysterious leading  to another act in the play.

You can now drink guilt free, feel your heart thank you and paint your own life picture with a glass of wine a day.

The current  path led me here. To change my blog. To write more about life. To be more honest because being a mom, female and being part of the wine industry has it’s tolls and set backs. I wanted to share to mostly get people off my back AND to encourage other moms, women in the wine industry.

Here I go…

Sauternes! Now here is a dessert wine largely overlooked in the states. Mostly because it is French, thus leading to a complicated label on top of being a rare wine…hence overlooked. This wine owes its name to Botrytis Cinerea. Yes, a fungus; a creepy little fungus that pervades on grapes in only very rare parts of the world.  Sauternes is one of them.

Although Sauternes is the name of the dessert wine it is also a place. It is located in the Graves section of Bordeaux, France and is typically a blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon Blanc and Muscadelle grapes. When Botrytis (also referred to as Noble Rot) takes over it dries out the grape and causes the water in the pulp to evaporate. What is left is a concentration of sweet, sugary goodness, but never, ever a syrupy badness. The Noble Rot creates a perfect balance of sweetness and zesty acidity. You’ll find flavors of honey, peach, apricot and a slight mustiness. These flavors resonate on the palate and for once keep you in the present and let you look into the future…these wine can keep for up to 100 years unopened and properly stored.

This process of wine making and rare Mother Nature occurrence is seen throughout the world, such as South Africa with the grape Chenin Blanc and Germany with the grape Riesling. Many of the grapes are hand selected with precision. This is very mush the case in Germany where hand chosen grapes must be picked a precise moment in time. Like holding your breath for that perfect kiss or as I would like…the last matching lottery number.

Another Dessert wine favorite of mine is found in southern Spain near and around Malaga. There, many vineyards are dedicated to the grape Muscat, aka Muscatel, Muscato, Muskateller and the list does on. Some wine makers will harvest the grapes when they are ripe, lay them out on wooden vats and wait. The sun dries out the grapes similar to what Noble Rot does. The berries that do not dry properly or get mold are removed daily and then you wait more. When all is said and done, oh man, it’s like sipping on heaven. This process (called Ripasso in Italy) is done throughout the world with different grapes and is especially famous in Italy’s Veneto region where it is called Amarone. There, different techniques apply, but the end result is…well you get it.

Last and I can never forget is Porto aka Port. Before I go on I must clear the air and remind all of us that Porto is only from Portugal. It is a fortified red wine, often sweet but can be dry and can be made with white grapes (rare to get in Colorado). The complexities of making port involve aging, the grape varietals used (typically over forty in Porto starting with Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo),Touriga Francesa, and Touriga Nacional) blending, climate and earth. The combination off all these determines its style and flavor. My personal favorites are called Tawny’s. They can be nutty, caramel like and smooth like butta.

Many wineries and wine makers all over the world make different styles of dessert wines in different ways. This is a very short list of my favorites and one that I believe are very unique and special. No one is just adding sugar or syrup. The weather and earth are all taken into account and it’s a big gamble. I did leave out that these wines are kind of expensive, but you only live once. Oh, yeah. I just used a really cheesy saying that is so true.

I have often referred to this grape as”the in between,” “soft,” “the stepping stone” and simply “flowers”. It is the ancient, behind the scenes yet still unknown grape. Did you know that Viognier is often blended with Syrah/Shiraz. A common practice actually. You may have had Viognier multiple times and never even knew it…hence the behind the scene grape.

Viognier is indigenous to France. Grown mostly in the Rhone Valley (and along the Mediterranean), it is made into the perfumed essence of Condrieu (the Viognier Capital of Northern Rhone Valley and I might add the impossibly hard to get a hold of wine and one of the hardest to sell). Viognier is also blended with the French white grapes Marsanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc in Rhone too.  Due to Viognier’s floral presence, many wine makers will blend it with Syrah. This blend also causes a chemical reaction giving the wine a darker, more concentrated color. This practice is old hat in France, but now is seen more and more in Australia, California and S. Africa.

One reason why Viognier is one of my favorite grapes is because it is a great “stepping stone” or “in between” from sweet white wine to dry white wine. The reason is that Viognier is typically lower in acid, softer and very fruit forward. This lessens the shock from sweet to dry. Plus, the aromas this grape produces are so delicious smelling, this alone tricks the minds into thinking you’re going to have a sweeter wine. Also, I often try to move Oaked Chardonnay drinkers to California Viognier. It has this creamy, vanilla, flower blossom and peach cobbler effect. French Viognier is more floral and has a dried apricot and honeysuckle flavor.

Beyond the typical Viognier blend, many vineyards are blending it with Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Cabernet Sauvignon with great success. I have been pleased with quite a few; especially in S. African wines.

Another reason why you may not be familiar with Viognier is because it is a very fickle and difficult grape to grow. The production has to be kept low for vineyards to have better control overseeing the vines growing process. It is delicate from vine to the wine in your glass. Plus, it is a great pairing with spicy foods! Which I love and is my most popular wine pairing question. Manitou definitely likes their spice…in their food and in life!

There are several elements you can add to wine to change its flavor and mouthfeel. Many of them have been perfectly acceptable as long as they are made known. For example, some wineries will Chaptalize their wine, which means adding sugar to sweeten or raise the alcohol level. This is done in fortified wines like port, Champagne and German Rieslings classified as QbA (But not all, they have the option to do so).  There are also ways to control the acidity in wine called malolactic fermentation. These all have to do with the process of making particular wines and has been done for centuries. What I’m shocked about is how wine is becoming like fast food.

The additives I mentioned above are mainly added to bulk wine, but some wineries (in many countries) that sell their wines for $20 or more are using these techniques to save money. One in particular, that is totally legal, is the use of Mega Purple. Mega Purple is and additive discovered in 1992 that is made from grape concentrate.  Mega purple adds color, fruit flavors, texture and covers up vegetal flavors in otherwise known as your bulk, mass produced, red table wine.  Ever notice how California’s low end (two buck chuck) red wine tastes the same fruity and jammy flavor year, after year, after year? No matter what the weather was like?  AND no matter what winery’s wine you purchased, they all taste exactly the same? Well, your answer is Mega Purple.

You may ask, “What’s the big deal about mass produced wine?” Well, the more stress and force you put on a vine to push out as many berries as possible, beyond what nature intended, the quicker the quality plummets and the flavor turns vegetal and boring.  That is where the manipulation comes in. The wine lacks tannin? Let’s add powdered tannin. Oak barrels are too expensive? Let’s soak the wine in oak chips. The wine is not tart enough?  Let’s add tartaric acid. The wine is lacking alcohol? Let’s add Methanol. Just kidding, but seriously, this incident did happen once in Italy back in the 80’s. Crazy. (I do have to put in here that this should not reflect badly on the Italian wine industry.  Italian wines are Deeeelicious).

These tools are available to all winemakers and their job is to make great wine. There is also a lot of pressure on winemakers to get the best ratings, hence, why these techniques are becoming increasingly common. So, the question is…is this cheating?

You may not care if there’s Mega Purple in your wine or if the wine was soaked in oak chips.  As long as it tastes ok, what’s wrong with that? Well ask yourself this, does it really taste ok? Do you want your wine to taste JUST OK? As for me, it doesn’t taste ok. When I buy wine, I want to taste more than just fruit water. I want character and layers. I want to think about it and I want my tongue to water for more. I want variety. Cheating takes away variety. When we all cheat, we end up with the same answer. We end up with the same wine year, after year, after year. As I like to say, lame.

I feel like the “big dog” wine industry is turning us into drones. They must assume that we all like the same things, taste the same way and think the same way. I ask you to not let them destroy your palate.  Appreciate the winery that cares for their vines, caters to them, takes the earth into consideration and has passion.  As I also like to say… sip, savor and then if you want, get crazy…as long as you savor first.

I have no qualms about making fun of myself. So, I’ll go first. Years ago while waiting tables I told people that Grappa was made out of crushes vines. One day, I ask a wine rep “how many vines do they have to crush to get all that juice out?  It must be a ton.” The rep said, that sounds like an intriguing idea, but Grappa comes from grape pomace (Muscat mostly) where the juice actually is. I learned later that sometime the stalk gets in there. Suffice to say, I was really embarrassed, but I learned something new, which is the point. So, here is a small list of common questions that I love, appreciate and sometimes make me giggle inside and you should too.

“Why does the label say grape? Are they all grape flavored?” My response…well, technically, yes.

“I don’t like red wine. Can I get a Merlot?”

“Do you have a sweet red?” Um, no.

“Do you have any sulfite free wine?” Um, double no.

“How do they get those flavors into the wine?”

“What is a Viognier grape?”

“Do you make all this wine yourself?”  Really?

“Do you drink the wine in the store?” Um, yes.

“Do they make wine in Colorado?”

“Do they grow grapes in Manitou?”

“What is the difference between Syrah and Shiraz?” Petit Sirah and Syrah?

“What is the difference between a screw cap and a cork?”

“What wine goes with lamb?” A lot of you love your lamb.

“Will it burn my tongue?”  Asked after I said the wine was spicy.

“Do you have any forties?”

“What is tannin?”

“What do you mean by heavy bodied?”

“What is your favorite wine?”

And the winner is…“Does Organic mean Sulfite free?” And we will go there again in 2010 for sure. Oh, and NO.

Any of these questions look familiar and you never asked? Well, you should because an answer always follows a question and the fear of embarrassment should never hinder an opportunity to learn. I used to be afraid to ask wine questions because frankly, it’s very intimidating. Do you want to know what happened when I started to ask questions to the winos I was afraid of? They never knew the answer.

The Italian government has a fool proof system of classification that informs the consumer which wine regions are deemed excellent quality. Considering you can’t hear the sarcasm in my voice, that last statement was very facetious.  They have very similar wine laws to that of France in which they classify all wine growing regions from excellent quality to poor quality. During the period in which this system was put into practice, the Italian Government was (and still are) very proud of their Chianti region. Therefore, all of Chianti was given the honor of a higher quality. This proved the classification system to be very flawed.

The Chianti region has incredibly varied quality. It encompasses over 17,600 acres of vineyards with diverse topography, weather, productions levels, growing techniques, wine making techniques, soil type and sun exposure.  Considering all these factors, it is logical to say that combining all the vineyards together like a group of sheep is wrong in so many ways.  Those who have had Chianti in the past and especially more than one know that some are great, some mind blowing and some not even worthy to cook with. So, the point is, how do you choose the right Chianti. The following is a breakdown of the Chianti region and a few tips for which ones to try.

Chianti can be broken down into eight sub-zones. They are…

Chianti Classico-part of the original Chianti zone. Considered the top tier of Chianti and consistent with quality and demands the lowest yields.

Rufina- most distinctive, producing elegant wines for long ageing

Colli Senesi-exhibits beautiful wines and highly successful estates

Colline Pisane- lightest body and color, meant to be drunk young

Montalbano-less distinguished wines

Colli Fiorentini-less distinguished, fruit forward, quality varies greatly

Colli Aretini-simple structure, fruit forward

Montespertoli-simple structure, fruit forward (since 1996)

Each zone exhibits a particular style (unfortunately, if a sub-zone is not mentioned on the label it can be from anywhere in Chianti). As I mentioned earlier, Chianti is primarily made of the grape Sangiovese. Sangiovese is greatly influenced by its place (where it’s grown), but even more so its yield (vine output or production levels).  They lose their power and get more acidic when production levels go up.  The zones that state “simple” or “less distinctive” is a result of over production. It doesn’t mean all the wines in these regions are like this, but these regions are more varied in quality and tend to lean towards a less distinctive style. This is not entirely a bad thing. Chianti of this style can be very enjoyable to drink. There are very refreshing and exhibit ripe fruits such as, raspberries, plum and cherry. The point is, this is not what top tier Chianti should be and hence they shouldn’t be put under the same umbrella of quality.

True Chianti is meant to be big, powerful, bold, earthy with truffles, white pepper, rich, red currant, gamey, meaty and seductive. Also, The Italians are very passionate about aging their wine. True Chianti ages as gracefully as Isabella Rossellini. When a Chianti label states Riserva it has been aged for 12 months, twenty-seven for Chianto Classico. Many are aged much longer.

Whether your styles of Chianti are lighter with more fruit or bold with a caressing bite, the point is to purchase the one you want. Although, the seductive with a caressing bite hypnotizes me every time.

Open your eyes…you are in Jumilla (hoo-mee-yuh), Spain where the red grape Monastrell rules the land.

The main regions of Southeast Spain include, Jumilla, Yecla, Almansa, Alicante and Bullas. Jumilla was established as a D.O. (“Denominación de Origen”, the second category for quality wine in Spain) in 1995, but has been making wine since Roman times. During the late 19^th century France and other parts of Europe suffered the wrath of Phylloxera (a.k.a. a really nasty pest that dines on grape vine roots), while Jumilla was left intact. For a short while, Jumilla enjoyed a boost in wine sales given that the French wine market was trying to recover from near collapse. Afterward, Phylloxera found its way south nearly destroying all of the vineyards in Jumilla.   It was 1989, most young, female American teenagers were dressing up like Madonna, and meanwhile the wineries in Jumilla were ripping out rootstock.  As a result, about 60% of Jumilla vines are much younger in comparison to the rest of Europe.

Jumilla produces five different types of wine: reds, rosés, whites, sweet natural wines and dessert wines. The principle white grape is Airén and as I mentioned earlier…Monastrell rules the roost.

The climate in Jumilla is very similar to that of Arizona’s. It’s hot, dry, arid and perfect for growing the grape Monastrell (85% of Jumilla’s vineyards are Monastrell). Monastrell is a very late ripening grape, so it needs a long hot summer to reach its peak, but cool nights to hang on to its acidity. Those cool nights are generated by its close proximity to the Mediterranean.

Drought is a constant battle in Jumilla. The sun shines on an average of 3,000 hours a year and rainfall is a meager 12 inches annually. The Spanish are very particular about the use of irrigation and it is often restricted. You would think this would prevent vines from growing in Jumilla, but luckily Jumilla soil is “special.” It is composed of red-brown limestone lying over limestone bedrock. This type of earth has high water retention and is slightly porous which allows the vines to survive long periods of drought. That is some special dirt…and Monastrell loves it.

Monastrell, referred to as Mourvèdre in France, is of Spanish origin and is grown throughout the Mediterranean coast.  It is often blended with Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault in Southern Rhone Valley. Characteristically, it typically exhibits flavors of wild game, exotic spices, pan grill, and black fruits.  Other red grapes grown in Jumilla are Syrah, Cencibel (Tempranillo), Tintorera, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Verdot.

The wines of Jumilla are becoming increasingly complex and are developing their own particular style. In my opinion, it is a great area to explore because you get the opportunity to try wines that taste like $50 bottles, but you pay less than $20 for them. Yecla and Almansa, Jumilla’s neighbors are becoming hot items too. Southeastern Spain is your new wine travel guide. Grab on to Jumilla while it’s hot.

Ok, I’ll admit it’s not all that bad if you end up with a martini, but food calls for wine. They should be a song harmoniously singing together whispering sweetness in your belly. Think of food and wine as lovers. When one fails to do the laundry, the other offers the cold shoulder, but when promises are kept they will skip along into the sunset. Plus, it’s not called a pairing for nothing. Both the wine and the food have to contribute to the relationship.  One should not overpower the other. Therefore, I have a step by step program to guide you through the relationship…between wine and food I mean.

1. What kinds of foods compliment other foods? What spices would you rub on beef? What kinds of fruits taste great with chicken or fish (I enjoy citrus, such as lime)? This same idea can be applied to food and wine. Basically, you want to thinks of ingredients that enhance each other’s flavors. For example, if you’re making steak rub with black pepper, try a wine with a black pepper flavor. You can often find a Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Carménère with a peppery flavor. Mango goes great on a chicken salad, so find a wine that has tropical fruit flavors, such as a warm climate Chardonnay from Southern California, Western Australia or Mendoza Argentina.  The nuances (flavor characteristics found in particular grape varietals) in wine should complement the dish. The answer is on the dinner plate. Serving Lobster with clementines and grapefruit? Find a wine with grapefruit and citrus nuances such as Spanish Verdejo (like Rueda) or New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

2. Next is the Acid factor. Acidity plays a big role in food pairing; especially when we’re talking high fat, creamy foods, which we never have. Acidity cuts through the creaminess that coats your tongue, which in return allows you to taste the wine. If a wine is low in acidity and you’re having a cream based soup for example, it will be very difficult to taste the wine. The acid acts somewhat like a palate cleanser. Oh, and remember that acid and spice are sworn enemies.

1. Finally, if you taste more of one or the other (the food or the wine) it is not a good pairing. Unfortunately, you find this out after you purchase the wine and bring it home. This is why we so often hear “white wine with chicken or fish and red wine with dark meats.”  It is a very good tool to follow. One cannot have more power than the other. Nobody wants to be part of that relationship.

The stronger the red wine (Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo, Old Vine Grenache, Chianti Classico and Brunello Di Montalcino for example, all fall into this category) the more powerful the dish should be and vice versa. A light white wine should be paired with a light dish.

There are many other variables that play into wine and food pairing. Just refer to my first sentence…Chicken with roasted veggies. Is it white or red and what kind of white or red. Ask your local wine shop’s Sommelier for recommendations. That is what they’re there for.

Food paring is a balancing act of flavors. I think I mention this in almost every column. “Everything in moderation” is an overdone, simple, but fantastic quote.