Some days I want to be Chile. Yes, as in the country. Not France, Italy, California, but just like Chile. Totally isolated, wrapped tightly, and hard to get to. I always think of this when the days are long, hard and slow. “Can’t I just be Chile?” resonated through my mind when I chose it for our wine region of the month. Its wine history is so fascinating and its location…desirable, figuratively speaking.
On top of Chile or to its north are the dry, scorching hot sands of the Atacama Desert. Then you go to the East and you’re overwhelmed with the grand sights of the massive Andes Mountains. Look left and find the depths of the Atlantic Ocean. Then, just beyond its southerly border is the bare coldness of Antarctica’s thrilling glaciers. A nature created barricade just for Chile and this barricade is heart of what makes Chile’s wine growing country unique and very desirable…literally speaking this time.
Grapes vines and wine making in Chile goes as far back as the mid 16th Century, where Spaniards settled here and planted the Pais grape, Muscatel and other Spanish Varietals. Wine production was miniscule and export was nearly nonexistent. The rest of the wine world was enjoying the likes of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, from the beloved France and Italy’s prized Chianti. Why even glance at Chile? Then it all boiled down to a bug; the Madonna of all bugs, Phylloxera.
Phylloxera is a root feeding aphid and its favorite meal is the rootstock of the vine, Vitis Vinifera. Vitis Vinifera is basically the species of grape vines that are made into wine…the common grape. The other is called Vitis Labrusca also known as the Concord grape. The Concord grape vine is somewhat resistant to Phylloxera because it has had the time to build and immunity to it. Phylloxera is indigenous to North America whereas the Concord grape is too, but Vitis Vinifera, your Cabs, Merlots, Chardonnays and all other wine making grapes, are not.
Here’s the short story…the European brings over Vitis Vinifera to North America. Then the American says, “Can I trade with you?” “My wine for yours, your vine for mine?” (Your plants for mine and vice versa). By the way, there’s this bug that is hitch hiking back with you to Europe and it’ll practically wipe out the entire wine industry. You can use our Concord grape root stock to graft your Vitis Vinifera and it’ll save your wine industry. No hard feelings. The end, but just the beginning for Chile.
While the wine industry in Europe took a nose dive (around 1843) due to the Phylloxera outbreak, many winemakers and vineyard owners were out of work especially the French, where it was first and hardest hit. (The Phylloxera outbreak is compared to the potato famine with similar economic impact and hardship) Therefore, the French headed to Chile. It had desirable land, climate, weather and great potential for vine growing. Plus, the nasty little bug could not get through Chile’s natural barricade. The Andes are too high, the dessert too hot and sandy, the ocean too big and the glaciers too cold. Chile was then discovered, coveted and planted with better vines than the Pais grape and Muscatel.
You would think the impact of French wine makers with their wine technology and thousands of years of experience would have made Chile the next Bordeaux. Well, it didn’t. The Chilean Government stifled wine plantings, growth and exports by price fixing and applying huge taxes. When a more free economy came about later in the 20th Century, you can notice the influx of quality wine, independent wine makers and reduced over production.
Now Chile is becoming famous for its Carmenere grape and Cabernet Sauvignons that give just as much body as California for half the price. Well, nowadays, a quarter of the price. The Carmenere grape was brought over by the French (it’s a Bordeaux Varietal) and for years passed on as Merlot. When it’s true origin was discovered by DNA testing it soon became Chile’s Grape. Plus, all grape vines in Chile are on natural rootstock, adding to this regions uniqueness and desirability. See, it is a desirable place; figuratively and literally. Get your hands on some Chilean wines. You will find not only the famous Carmenere, but wonderful Merlots, Cabs, Syrahs, Cab Francs, Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs and yes even Riesling and Pinot Noir in the South. Didn’t I mention the great price? Don’t forget that.
Now carrying Wine from Chilensis. Chardonnay and Malbec. $11.79/btl
More info on Chilensis, visit http://www.hemingwayandhale.com/wines_chilensis.htm
