Chianti, not just for fava bean & Liver

I’m starting this article with a clarification. Right this down, tattoo it to your arm or brand it on your butt.  Just remember that Chianti is the place and Sangiovese (San-gee-yoh-vay-see) is the grape.  All of Chianti will contain a minimum of 75 percent and up to 100 percent Sangiovese. Now that we cleared the air, another tid bit about Chianti is that it can be weak, overly fruity, flabby and boring OR it can be powerful, earthy, dry, concentrated, elegant and beautiful. The question is, what lies inside the bottle and how in the world do you tell. Wouldn’t it be fantastically, wonderfully, pleasing to know you’ll get option two? It’s all written in Italian.

The Italian government has a fool proof system of classification that informs the consumer which wine regions are deemed excellent quality. Considering you can’t hear the sarcasm in my voice, that last statement was very facetious.  They have very similar wine laws to that of France in which they classify all wine growing regions from excellent quality to poor quality. During the period in which this system was put into practice, the Italian Government was (and still are) very proud of their Chianti region. Therefore, all of Chianti was given the honor of a higher quality. This proved the classification system to be very flawed.

The Chianti region has incredibly varied quality. It encompasses over 17,600 acres of vineyards with diverse topography, weather, productions levels, growing techniques, wine making techniques, soil type and sun exposure.  Considering all these factors, it is logical to say that combining all the vineyards together like a group of sheep is wrong in so many ways.  Those who have had Chianti in the past and especially more than one know that some are great, some mind blowing and some not even worthy to cook with. So, the point is, how do you choose the right Chianti. The following is a breakdown of the Chianti region and a few tips for which ones to try.

Chianti can be broken down into eight sub-zones. They are…

Chianti Classico-part of the original Chianti zone. Considered the top tier of Chianti and consistent with quality and demands the lowest yields.

Rufina- most distinctive, producing elegant wines for long ageing

Colli Senesi-exhibits beautiful wines and highly successful estates

Colline Pisane- lightest body and color, meant to be drunk young

Montalbano-less distinguished wines

Colli Fiorentini-less distinguished, fruit forward, quality varies greatly

Colli Aretini-simple structure, fruit forward

Montespertoli-simple structure, fruit forward (since 1996)

Each zone exhibits a particular style (unfortunately, if a sub-zone is not mentioned on the label it can be from anywhere in Chianti). As I mentioned earlier, Chianti is primarily made of the grape Sangiovese. Sangiovese is greatly influenced by its place (where it’s grown), but even more so its yield (vine output or production levels).  They lose their power and get more acidic when production levels go up.  The zones that state “simple” or “less distinctive” is a result of over production. It doesn’t mean all the wines in these regions are like this, but these regions are more varied in quality and tend to lean towards a less distinctive style. This is not entirely a bad thing. Chianti of this style can be very enjoyable to drink. There are very refreshing and exhibit ripe fruits such as, raspberries, plum and cherry. The point is, this is not what top tier Chianti should be and hence they shouldn’t be put under the same umbrella of quality.

True Chianti is meant to be big, powerful, bold, earthy with truffles, white pepper, rich, red currant, gamey, meaty and seductive. Also, The Italians are very passionate about aging their wine. True Chianti ages as gracefully as Isabella Rossellini. When a Chianti label states Riserva it has been aged for 12 months, twenty-seven for Chianto Classico. Many are aged much longer.

Whether your styles of Chianti are lighter with more fruit or bold with a caressing bite, the point is to purchase the one you want. Although, the seductive with a caressing bite hypnotizes me every time.

Jumilla, Spain It’s Hot…Literally!

Imagine standing, weak kneed, in the middle of a desert. It is 104 degrees and your core is reaching boiling point while your skin is darkening. A cool breeze blows down your spine and the onset of night is just around the corner. Here the night brings a chill to the bone so drastic from the burn of the sun a few hours earlier that you can’t wait to take on the cloudless sky the next day.

Open your eyes…you are in Jumilla (hoo-mee-yuh), Spain where the red grape Monastrell rules the land.

The main regions of Southeast Spain include, Jumilla, Yecla, Almansa, Alicante and Bullas. Jumilla was established as a D.O. (“Denominación de Origen”, the second category for quality wine in Spain) in 1995, but has been making wine since Roman times. During the late 19^th century France and other parts of Europe suffered the wrath of Phylloxera (a.k.a. a really nasty pest that dines on grape vine roots), while Jumilla was left intact. For a short while, Jumilla enjoyed a boost in wine sales given that the French wine market was trying to recover from near collapse. Afterward, Phylloxera found its way south nearly destroying all of the vineyards in Jumilla.   It was 1989, most young, female American teenagers were dressing up like Madonna, and meanwhile the wineries in Jumilla were ripping out rootstock.  As a result, about 60% of Jumilla vines are much younger in comparison to the rest of Europe.

Jumilla produces five different types of wine: reds, rosés, whites, sweet natural wines and dessert wines. The principle white grape is Airén and as I mentioned earlier…Monastrell rules the roost.

The climate in Jumilla is very similar to that of Arizona’s. It’s hot, dry, arid and perfect for growing the grape Monastrell (85% of Jumilla’s vineyards are Monastrell). Monastrell is a very late ripening grape, so it needs a long hot summer to reach its peak, but cool nights to hang on to its acidity. Those cool nights are generated by its close proximity to the Mediterranean.

Drought is a constant battle in Jumilla. The sun shines on an average of 3,000 hours a year and rainfall is a meager 12 inches annually. The Spanish are very particular about the use of irrigation and it is often restricted. You would think this would prevent vines from growing in Jumilla, but luckily Jumilla soil is “special.” It is composed of red-brown limestone lying over limestone bedrock. This type of earth has high water retention and is slightly porous which allows the vines to survive long periods of drought. That is some special dirt…and Monastrell loves it.

Monastrell, referred to as Mourvèdre in France, is of Spanish origin and is grown throughout the Mediterranean coast.  It is often blended with Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault in Southern Rhone Valley. Characteristically, it typically exhibits flavors of wild game, exotic spices, pan grill, and black fruits.  Other red grapes grown in Jumilla are Syrah, Cencibel (Tempranillo), Tintorera, Garnacha, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petite Verdot.

The wines of Jumilla are becoming increasingly complex and are developing their own particular style. In my opinion, it is a great area to explore because you get the opportunity to try wines that taste like $50 bottles, but you pay less than $20 for them. Yecla and Almansa, Jumilla’s neighbors are becoming hot items too. Southeastern Spain is your new wine travel guide. Grab on to Jumilla while it’s hot.

Wine and Food pairing basics

White wine goes with Chicken, no wait, ummmm heavy –bodied, white wine goes with Chicken… that’s right, no wait, light bodied red with chicken and roasted vegetables; wait…is it red with roasted veggies? UGH! I give up! Give me a martini.

Ok, I’ll admit it’s not all that bad if you end up with a martini, but food calls for wine. They should be a song harmoniously singing together whispering sweetness in your belly. Think of food and wine as lovers. When one fails to do the laundry, the other offers the cold shoulder, but when promises are kept they will skip along into the sunset. Plus, it’s not called a pairing for nothing. Both the wine and the food have to contribute to the relationship.  One should not overpower the other. Therefore, I have a step by step program to guide you through the relationship…between wine and food I mean.

1. What kinds of foods compliment other foods? What spices would you rub on beef? What kinds of fruits taste great with chicken or fish (I enjoy citrus, such as lime)? This same idea can be applied to food and wine. Basically, you want to thinks of ingredients that enhance each other’s flavors. For example, if you’re making steak rub with black pepper, try a wine with a black pepper flavor. You can often find a Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Carménère with a peppery flavor. Mango goes great on a chicken salad, so find a wine that has tropical fruit flavors, such as a warm climate Chardonnay from Southern California, Western Australia or Mendoza Argentina.  The nuances (flavor characteristics found in particular grape varietals) in wine should complement the dish. The answer is on the dinner plate. Serving Lobster with clementines and grapefruit? Find a wine with grapefruit and citrus nuances such as Spanish Verdejo (like Rueda) or New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

2. Next is the Acid factor. Acidity plays a big role in food pairing; especially when we’re talking high fat, creamy foods, which we never have. Acidity cuts through the creaminess that coats your tongue, which in return allows you to taste the wine. If a wine is low in acidity and you’re having a cream based soup for example, it will be very difficult to taste the wine. The acid acts somewhat like a palate cleanser. Oh, and remember that acid and spice are sworn enemies.

1. Finally, if you taste more of one or the other (the food or the wine) it is not a good pairing. Unfortunately, you find this out after you purchase the wine and bring it home. This is why we so often hear “white wine with chicken or fish and red wine with dark meats.”  It is a very good tool to follow. One cannot have more power than the other. Nobody wants to be part of that relationship.

The stronger the red wine (Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tempranillo, Old Vine Grenache, Chianti Classico and Brunello Di Montalcino for example, all fall into this category) the more powerful the dish should be and vice versa. A light white wine should be paired with a light dish.

There are many other variables that play into wine and food pairing. Just refer to my first sentence…Chicken with roasted veggies. Is it white or red and what kind of white or red. Ask your local wine shop’s Sommelier for recommendations. That is what they’re there for.

Food paring is a balancing act of flavors. I think I mention this in almost every column. “Everything in moderation” is an overdone, simple, but fantastic quote.

French Wines are not the Scary!

The butterflies arrived swarming in my belly.  They flutter every time I start writing my next column because the excitement is so strong.  There are so many wine related issues flooding my brain. I start one and get distracted with another. Then the other day, I was staring at my French section and realized…I have not sold one French bottle in a WEEK. One entire week! To me that’s crazy, but then I look at the labels. The light bulb not only went on but it exploded.  The labels are impossibly confusing to read and if you can read them, how do you know what you’re getting. So, here is my column…a simple (attempt at simple) breakdown of the French wine labeling system. Consider it the key to your French palate.

The INA0 “Institute National des Appellations d’Origine” is a French Government organization that defines all wine regions (or appellations), groups them together, sorts them out and assures us, the consumer,  which areas adhere to the highest standards set forth again by the INAO. The standards are in relation to production levels, blending of grapes and grape to place (grapes are restricted to certain regions). These are clearly written on all French labels. JUST KIDDING.

The French wholeheartedly believe certain grape varietals should only be grown in certain regions that encompass perfect earth, weather, climate, slopes and terracing in order for the grape varietals to exhibit their truest potential.  Another name for this is “Terroir”. A French term meaning the special characteristics that geography imparts to grape varietals. This rule of thumb should be a religion around the world and in many cases is. This all refers back to the classification/appellation system developed by the INAO and this is how it goes…

These are appellation classifications listed from highest level of Quality to the lowest according to INAO.

AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) -this includes the following regions…Bordeaux, Burgundy, Chablis, Alsace, Loire Valley, Cotes du Rhone, Champagne, Cahors, Provence, Languedoc-Roussillon, Jura, Savoie, Gaillac, Cognac, Armagnac, and Jurancon. Grape varietals are NOT listed except for Alsace (for real! I know, who makes up this stuff?!). REMEMBER, these regions are broken down into even smaller regions and they will also be listed on the label. For example: Saint-Estephe is a smaller region within Bordeaux and the label will read as follows…Appellation Saint-Estephe Controlee. When a smaller region is listed, it also constitutes a better quality wine. I think you can see the tier forming.

VDQS-Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure “Delimited Wine of Superior Quality” Basically an AOC in waiting.

Vin de Pays-Literally means country wine. These areas are sectioned out by the INAO and have fewer restrictions on production and what grapes can be grown. One example is Vin de Pays du Gard. The grape will be listed on the label.

Vin de Table- basic wine with no geographical origin.

I don’t want to confuse you anymore than you are. Hopefully your eyes aren’t glazed over, unless you’re sipping on wine while reading this. I think the confusion steps in when the regions get broken down smaller and smaller until they become unfamiliar and you have no idea where the wine is from and what grape it is. That’s reminds me. There’s more. We still have grape to place. Each AOC is restricted to certain grape varietals. Here’s a quickie lowdown…

Bordeaux Reds/Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cab Franc, Malbec & Petite Verdot. Whites/ Sauvignon Blanc & Semillion.

Burgundy Reds/Pinot Noir & Gamay. Whites/Chardonnay

Chablis White/Chardonnay

Cotes du Rhone Reds/Syrah in Northern Rhone and Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Cinsault & Carignan in Southern Rhone. Whites/Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne & Grenache Blanc

Loire Valley Reds/Cab Franc & Pinot Noir. Whites/ Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadet & Chenin Blanc.

Cahors Red/Malbec

I’m now looking back on this article and thinking, I may have deterred people even more so from drinking French wine. Meanwhile the little Frenchman is in the back snickering. I say, let them laugh. I am going to drink French wine with my nose up too. You know why? Because French wine is beautiful, unique, and so damn good. Plain as that!

The Sulfite Issue Persists

What is the real deal with Sulfites in Wine?

Here is the low down people…sulfite free wine is as real as the walking dead, fairies, leprechauns, unicorns, talking penguins and I could go on.  Here’s my attempt at being “un” technical…sulfites are a natural bi-product of fermentation. Fermentation is the natural chemical process of turning sugar into alcohol with the use of yeast.  Fermenting yeasts will formulate SO₂ from the naturally occurring inorganic sulfates in all grape juice even without the addition of sulfur dioxide to wine according to Professor Roger Boulton, Ph.D., University of California at Davis, Department of Viticulture and Enology.  A Sulfite free wine in nature is purely accidental or a freak of nature if you will. Phew! That was a mouthful.

Now, if you just believe in the above paragraph and become a follower of truth, we can move on to the options for those who cannot have or consume too many sulfites.

On average, if a wine is made with its natural yeast on the skin, the amount of sulfites found in the wine typically range from 6-40 parts per million (ppm). The USDA allows up to 350 ppm of sulfites and certified organic standards are limited to 100ppm. Therefore, one can at least rely on Certified Organic wines where no additional sulfites are present. Plus, chemical fertilizers, pesticides, synthetic chemicals, herbicides and fungicides are not allowed in the vines or soil.  Sulfites are added to act as a preservative (a way to prevent spoilage), so be aware that organic wines will perish sooner after opening.

This isn’t a campaign for Certified Organic Wine.  Many wineries are self sustaining, small, and family owned that have been established as organic without the “organic seal of approval” for generations. You can ask your local wine shop what these options are. Also, be aware that the FDA and the BATF (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms) require all wines to put “Contains Sulfites” warning label if and only if there is more than 10ppm of sulfites in the wine. Less than that can leave “Contains Sulfites” warning label off, but obviously those little critters are still there.

Many of my customers have said they have tried sulfite free wine. It is incredibly, impossibly, hugely rare. So, I was curious. How do they make sulfite free wine? Warning…this is gross. Hydrogen Peroxide is added. One word, yuck.

To find out whether you are allergic to sulfites, try some dried fruit, fruit juice, jams, or syrups (please consult your doctor first). These all contain sulfites. Don’t worry; the average risk of being allergic is low. Typically .4% of the population, according to the FDA, is allergic. That is about 1.2 million people and asthmatics are at a real risk.  Also, the medical community has found no direct link to headaches and sulfites. It is most likely the alcohol, the stress, lack of water, histamines or life’s crazy ways that give us headaches.  For more information, look up these great websites… http://www.ecowine.com/sulfites.htm and http://asev.org/. Now follow the truth.

No oak? No problem!

Why do wine makers use oak? Well, the use of oak can add flavors of vanilla, cream, butter, wood, smoke, toast, coconut, pineapple and cedar depending on the grape of course. Oak can also offer tannin structure (gives the wine a bigger backbone and adds depth and dryness) to red wines, which is greatly influenced by the type of oak and time spent in barriques (oak barrels). As far as Chardonnay, this grape is a sponge when it comes to oak. It LOVES it…baths in it. Splashes around like a two year old in the tub.  It soaks up oak’s soul. I think you get my point. This, however, is how over- oaked Chardonnay comes to life.

Sometimes I feel Chardonnay is purposely over-oaked to mask the bad qualities of that particular wine. Just like adding extra dressing on a boring salad. That is just one of my many wine conspiracy theories (another one is adding sugar, called Chaptalization, to bad wine). Don’t hate me now. There is nothing wrong with oaked Chardonnay; the trick is all about balance.  Therefore, when oak slips under the covers, the Ménage à “Cinq” must include a nice balance of acid, fruit nuance, residual sugar and alcohol.  When oak doesn’t play nice, and you’re “chewing bark” or what I like to call “drinking butter soup”, the wine becomes a disappointment. Unfortunately, this happens all too often, especially in California.

Many of my customers are seeking “no oak” or “un-oaked” Chardonnay, aka 100% stainless steel…a little wine jargon for you.  No oak Chardonnay is quickly becoming a trend. California, New Zealand and Australia are definitely on this gravy train.  Most labels (I emphasize most) are very clear and will say Un-Oaked or No Oak.  French wines labels typically will not list whether oak was used or not. Chablis and Burgundy white wine is Chardonnay, but you will have to ask you local wine shop whether it has the oak bug.  Remember that in France, the place, not the grape almost always will be listed on the label, so in Burgundy, look for regions such as, Mâconnais, Pouilly-Fuissé, Beaune, St. Aubin, Santenay, Corton-Charlamagne, and Meursault to name a few. In the regions of Languedoc-Rousillion and Provence the grape will sometimes grace us with its presence on the label.

When Chardonnay is un-oaked the style can change dramatically. They seem to reveal a more crisp like quality because the acids aren’t as muted and the fruit nuances shine through.   Since no oak is being used, wine makers do have to control the amount of acid or the wine will be sharp and too strong.  This is done through Malolactic Fermentaion. Malolactic Fermentation, in layman’s terms, is the process of turning the tart, sharp acids into good, yummy acids or Lactic acid if you will.  This conversion of acids can go part of the way or all the way.  It’s all about balance. Wine is really a shaky walk on a tight rope.

We’ve all heard the boring saying “too much of a good thing,” especially after we had the good thing.  Well, it applies to another detail in life. Oak! Who knew?!

Delicious, Strange Fruit

I always thought if I had the perfect selection of wines, funkiest microbrews, or even the fanciest art that my wine shop would then, FINALLY, be great, but I forgot about the people. I was thinking last night when I was closing up shop how great it felt to be surrounded by all those that visited my store that day. There are so many great stories to be heard, shoulders to lean on and advice about life to be given. The antiqued green, jewel toned blue and blood red walls covered in funky art isn’t nearly as colorful as all the people that walk into my store. I love to sit back and just listen, “so and so’s wife turned him into the IRS because she found out he was cheating on her. They gave him a new identity because there’s a hit out on him from the Mafia”  “Oh my god, I had this wine when I was a teenager traveling through Spain 25 years ago. I lived out of my backpack for a month” “I hitch hiked to Santa Fe and had Sangria with a stranger last week” “try these cupcakes I made. They’re  baked with rose water” “my husband was the person you saw on the news being chased by a bear on the golf course” “my dog ate 4 ears of corn with the husks on”  It goes on in so many great depths of laughter, sadness and comfort. This makes my wine shop great and fullfilling. Gotta go, it’s one minute dance off time with Max.

Open Mind

Oh, to have an open mind about wine is a glorious thing!

There are approximately 60,000 registered wine labels in California (according to www.californiawineinfo.com).  Can you imagine the number of labels around the world?!  Considering this fact, I am still astonished by some shoppers who are put off when they walk into my shop and I do not carry their wine.  BUT, I am the kind of person who likes to try new things and with all the many different styles of wine available, why stick to just one? Granted, I have tried wines blind and some of them I didn’t like, but the point is I can say “I tried that one and it sucked, now I know what I like and dislike.”  I also love how each grape exudes it’s own characteristic and it is important as a sommelier to know these differences. You learn to appreciate them all in there own unique way, whether you think they’re bad or not.

For example, my employee (Kat) and I have very different preferences in wine. One night we tried the 2007 Bodegas y Vinedos Luna Beberide, Mencia from Bierzo, Spain.  It was very concentrated, dark with black currant, blackberries and strong, tight tannins. True Mencia character. Kat loved it. Me, not so much. It wasn’t bad, it’s just not my style.

So, I suppose my point is, try something new because wine is all about the experience. There are so many options of wines and if you go into a wine boutique and there is an expert there that would love to get you to try something new and fun, do it!

After Birth

I’m sitting in my wine shop, doing typical paperwork and daydreaming of all these wines I want to get for my store. I look over to my left and focus in on the twinkle lights in my baby’s nursery. Then I wonder, are there other wine store owners, which are moms,  that bring their baby to work? Some days it feels crazy that I have a nursery in my shop and I feel even weirder when I have her attached to me in my baby carrier while I talk to people about which wine they should take home for dinner. She’s sleeping right now and I actually rememberd I had a blog. Instead of writing about wine like usual, I had to get my thoughts out and wonder about other moms and where they take their babies to work.

More Budget Wines, cuz we need it!

The main topic in the media, on our minds, and in our wallets…money, money, money! How do we save and keep enjoying the things we like (eh hem, WINE)? Therefore, I’m adding more budget wine suggestions that I’ve tried myself, loved and drank guilt free.

2007 Espelt 60% Garnacha/40% Carinena from Saulo, Spain-This organic wine hits you with a little smoke and toast and caresses you with it’s bright blackberry fruit. Nice tannin structure with a soft, long finish. $10.65/btl

2007 Altovinum Evodia Garnacha from Calatyud, Spain-This wine is made from 100 year old Garnacha vines in pure slate soils. The slate give it a mineral quality that I really enjoy with Spanish Garnacha. The black and red fruits are fresh and bright and drunk with a little tomato sauce the smoke really comes out. $9.65/btl

2007 Palazzone Dubini Bianco from Umbria, Italy-This Italian white is a lovely combination of Trebbiano, Malvasia, Verdello, and Grechetto which is a traditional blend from the Umbria area.  This wine is just outside the Orvieto region and therefore does not have DOC status, but in my opinion, it definitely deserves it.  The Palazzone is medium in body, cistrusy, fresh with great acidity. It also offers a nice bouqet and nuttiness. A great summer wine! $9.65/btl